Layers of Liberal Life
Traces of Freedom in Amman’s Urban Fabric

Amman - © Christina Gottardi
Amman, the capital of Jordan, holds more than historical monuments and ancient layers. Beneath its well-known conservatism lies a quieter current of liberal thought. In select corners of the city, liberal values emerge not through slogans, but through lived experience—through places shaped by openness, artistic experimentation, and a spirit of civic engagement.
Rainbow Street: A Hub of Dialogue and Diversity
Rainbow Street, situated in the old district of Jabal Amman, captures this ethos. A once-sleepy road now filled with cafes, bookshops, and cultural spaces, it draws individuals who value dialogue, diversity, and expression. The presence of the British Council and local heritage sites anchors the area in history, while its everyday life points toward a more inclusive future.

Rainbow Street – © Dilip Poddar
Books@Cafe: A Sanctuary of Tolerance and Thought
Books@Cafe, perched on a nearby hillside, holds symbolic weight. Since its opening in 1997, it has stood as one of the few places in the region to combine literature, public discourse, and acceptance. Its audience includes those searching for a tolerant environment, as well as those who quietly challenge societal boundaries.

Books@Cafe – © TripAdvisor
Jabal Al-Weibdeh: Where Art Meets Activism
In Jabal Al-Weibdeh, art and activism converge. The neighborhood has become a haven for visual artists, writers, and independent thinkers. Galleries such as Darat Al Funun foster critical inquiry, while nearby cafes host spontaneous debates or collaborative projects. This environment cultivates freedom not as a concept, but as a routine part of daily interaction.

Jabal Al-Weibdeh – © No Bedtimes, No Borders: A Family Travel Blog
Souk Jara: Community Engagement through Creativity
Elsewhere, the seasonal Souk Jara market highlights grassroots entrepreneurship and civic life. Every summer, it draws a wide range of participants—from artisans and local musicians to small initiatives advocating for rights and environmental awareness. Though commercial by nature, the market signals a broader openness to pluralism and public visibility.

Souk Jara (Tour Image) – © Expedia – Souq Jara Tours
Quiet Shifts in a City’s Cultural Landscape
Amman does not wear its liberalism openly. Yet in specific urban settings, subtle but persistent efforts reveal a city that supports freedom in form and function. These spaces reflect a gradual shift in tone—proof that cultural and civic transformation need not announce itself loudly to leave a mark.